Freitag, 9. Oktober 2015

16-19-21 | Baroque Revisted - The Concept [4th semester]

 The Inspiration & Historical Background the Collection is Based On


16-19-21 describes three centuries of different epochs with different clothing styles. But there’s one garment linking the three aerias: The 'Schaube'.
For decades it was the dress of powerful rulers or councilors, and today it is reinterpreted, merged with current trends.
Originally worn in the Orient, the 'Schaube' developed to ­rulers’ robes in the 15th century representing influence, wealth and power. The coat has an oversize, square shape. Compressing the voluminous fabric on the backside the cloth is eased in with a special technique. The length of the robe is linked with the wealth of the owner. However, if you can afford more of the expensive material the 'Schaube' reaches to the ankles, for the richer middle class it is only knee long. Sleeves of the coat changed with the trends during the ages. So puffed sleeves developed or sleeves are even losing their functional meaning. Out of the armhole a so called 'fake sleeve', which is only a stripe, is hanging down next to the body.
Over time the 'Schaube' is more and more getting out of fashion but keeps its‘ representative functions: Since the 17th century it was solely worn by councilors. Combined with a white neck brace and a black pleated hat they represented the interests of their towns.
Nowadays the shape of the 'Schaube' can be rediscovered in gowns of judges and graduates.
The collection Baroque revisited is based on two original ‚Schaube‘s from the Bavarian National museum. They date back to the 16th and 19th century and are both set­ with ­borders.

Besides the inspirations from the ancient coat, the collection is based on the aesthetics from the baroque period. As you can extract from baroque artwork the moved silhouette from the times are created with gathered cloth. Draped skirts and the layering of different material complete the pompous look. Accessories play an important role: socks out of silk, wigs and towering hair fixed with bands.
The dynamic, floating and floral look from baroque is ­corresponding­ to the feeling of the collection. Elements of the decade and of the 'Schaube' are used and set in a new ­context. So e.g. borders are redefined with tulle and the print assumes the dynamic and vivid feeling of baroque artwork.
The Spring/Summer Collection consists out of 46 garments,­­­
six of them are shown in this booklet:   waistcoats and 3 trousers.

With the modern silhouette of the collection it refers to the times of the 'Schaube': Oversized on the upper body and a slim and straight fit on the legs. The volume of the garment is created through pleats or volants, this gives a floating and moving ease to the clothing. With bright colors and the silver shining surface of the cloth the collections transmits a feeling of summer. The romantic look turns the past fashion elements into a playful but contemporary ­reinterpretation.
Extract from my Lookbook

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